While walking home in the evening, I came across a women
lying in the middle of the road, screaming in agony at the top of her lungs. It
looked like her arm was bloody, and my first thought was that she had been hit
by a motorcycle. There was a small group of people standing back on the road
observing everything, so I quickly approached them to see if they knew what had
happened. They did not. They told me that she was mentally ill, however. They
seemed unwilling to do more than watch, so I went to the woman. She had a large
head wound and her shirt sleeve was soaked in blood. She was crying and moaning
that her head and arm hurt. I tried to ask her what had happened, but she did
not respond. One man came over and said he thought she had come from the
hospital. We asked her again and she said that she had been at the hospital and
they drove her away, she returned and they beat her. The man nodded and
explained that she often disturbed patients there and that this was a likely
story. It is no secret that people with mental problems are not treated very
nicely here. In town, people often make fun of them, push them away, or even
throw things at them. However, it was saddening to believe that a hospital
would do this to anyone, let alone a mentally ill patient. The hospital, of all
places, should understand how to treat and handle someone suffering mental
health issues. This left us in a bit of a dilemma. In her condition, under
normal circumstances, I would have recommended that she go to the health center
to receive treatment. However, if it was the health center that did this to her
in the first place, that was no longer an option. I doubted that the police
would be very helpful, if any of them could even be contacted or found. We were
able to extract a relative’s phone number from her, and immediately called him.
He was in a different town, but said he would call another person to come and
collect her. In the meantime, I decided to go to the hospital (only a short
walk away) to find out what had actually happened. I arrived at the hospital
and found a nurse. I began to ask her if the woman had come to the hospital.
“Yes, she was just here.” I then mentioned that she had some wounds and might
have been beaten… “Oh yes, it was me,” the nurse replied. “She came in and
scattered my things and put on my sleeping cap, and so I beat her well and then
the guard brought her to the road.” Mystery solved. It was so disappointing to
hear the health care worker talk about how she had beaten a mentally ill
patient to the point of bleeding, all because the lady had put on her sleeping
cap. It’s times like this that I become discouraged or disappointed with this
country. How could someone hurt another human being like that? Beatings are
rather common here, but normally it is a small slap to the arm, or a hit with a
stick to a school child—still things that I don’t approve of—but not to the
point where you have done true physical harm to the person. To beat somebody
until they are bleeding from their arm and head is incomprehensible to me. I
tried to advise the nurse on how to treat the woman in the future, but it
didn’t leave much room for hope. We went back out to the woman, who started to
wander off despite our pleas for her to stay. We called her relative one last
time to let him know where she could be picked up, but that was as much as we
could do.
Sunday, September 14, 2014
Vaccination Campaign
This past week my village health staff underwent the
challenge of providing free yellow fever vaccines to everyone in the community.
The government provided free vaccines to all men, women, and children who were
over 9 months old. It was a wonderful opportunity for the people in village, as
this new vaccine protects them for life. It was a great initiative, but
difficult for the health to actually carry out. They had about four days to
vaccinate 14 villages. There are three health workers qualified to give shots.
They were busy, to say the least. Each day we split up and travelled to two or
three communities before returning home late in the evening. Most of the travel
was done by trekking to the villages, often in the rain as it is currently
rainy season, carrying a container of the vaccine, a box of disposable needles,
and a cardboard box for the waste. On one day, I trekked in between 15 and 20
kilometers. When we arrived in a community, we would gather the population at
some central point, like the chief’s palace. I would unwrap the needles, and
the health worker would prepare the shots. Everyone would line up, and then the
health worker would inject people one by one. The health staff did not have
gloves, they did not have band-aids to cover the injection spot, they did not
have alcohol swabs to wipe the arms. They simply took the syringe, gave the
shot, and the person walked away. Then the used needle was dropped into the
cardboard box.
It was a very interesting experience, as the entire town
would watch as a particular person received a shot. Young kids in particular
liked to watch to see what someone’s reaction would be, laughing hysterically
if the person cried out or made a funny face. A funny pattern emerged, in which
very young children were expected to cry, but almost all other people were
expected to show no sign of pain. For the young kids, it was acceptable to cry
and people understood their tears without trying to interfere. However, around
the age of five or so, it became unacceptable to show pain. Little kids over
five years had to suck it up, and did their best not to cry or make a funny
face when they were injected. I was amazed by a tiny girl who stepped up alone,
without any parent forcing her to do so, to get the shot. They put the needle
into her arm and you could see a flash of discomfort come across her face, but
then she locked it down. It must have taken her everything to stay impartial,
but she did not break. She walked away in her flowery dress without a single
tear falling. It was almost heartbreaking to see such a young child put on such
a display of bravery. But it wasn’t only the little girl who had to put on an
act. All children (both boys and girls) were not allowed to react in any way. Young
men were especially not supposed to show any sign of pain. They had to receive
the shot without any change in facial expression. All adults were also expected
to remain calm, although old men and women seemed to be allowed to make a bit
of a joke out of it. The older adults would often make faces of discomfort,
which was acceptable, but still drew peels of laughter from the on looking
children. However, the rules were bent for women from the ages of 15 to 25.
They were actually expected to overreact and be incredibly dramatic. They would
get a shot and would cry out or scream or shout and then rub their arms and run
away from the doctors and then huddle with their others friends making faces.
In all, it was a very successful campaign, and hundreds of
people are now immune to yellow fever.
Monday, September 1, 2014
What I Love Most About Life in Cameroon
As I approach the one-year mark, I reflect on all the
reasons I love Cameroon.
1. It is the closest I will ever come to being a celebrity.
People know all about my life, while I don’t know their name. I can go to a
different town and someone will come up to me and ask me how my puppy is. Children
run up to me and poke me, just to say that they touched me. People show up at
my door simply to say hi, and then trek back to their village. Kids come
running out of their houses when I walk by. People stand out in the street
shouting my name and waving to me whenever I’m around. Mothers will give me
their babies to hold. Everyone wants to snap a picture with me. Random kids
will come up to me and hold my hand until I am walking down the road with a
trail of people touching random parts of my body. I will never again be
surrounded by so many people who care so much about me while knowing me so
little.
2. I am beyond prepared for the ice bucket challenge, should
anyone nominate me. You think you’re so hardcore for doing the challenge? I get
to do that every morning of my life here. Water comes out of my showerhead
after sitting in a high-altitude mountain jungle all night. Yeah, it’s pretty
cold. And guess what? It’s not hot here. Despite it being Africa and all that
you may be imagining, I am living on a foggy mountain. My showers are not
exactly enjoyable. But I’m also not screaming or running away every time the
showerhead turns on (like many of you do in the videos I’ve seen). While we’re
on this subject, most of my friends don’t even have running water. They have to
go walk to a pump and haul their water back. They think you’re crazy for
pouring a giant bucket of potable water—mixed with ice (a luxury I haven’t seen
in 12 months)—onto the ground. And you film yourself doing it. A bucket of
water here goes a lot farther than that. A single bucket can be a few baths, a
hand washing station, used for cooking, poured into a filter to purify for
drinking water, and then still used to wash your filthy stinky clothes. Don’t
believe how dire it is? Ask the particular volunteer who put his dirty bath
water into his water filter to drink later. But yeah, hey, a job well done to
you for dumping that water on your body to get out of donating to a charity and
having the internet capabilities to upload it so all your friends can see the
struggle you went through. Ashia to you.
3. Where else can you hear, “I have prepared rat mole for
you. Will you eat?” And under what other circumstances would you actually try
it? And when else would rat mole actually turn out to be pretty good?
4. There is no focus on your appearance. There is nothing so
humbling as not showering for a week, forgetting what makeup is, and wearing
clothes that reek of mold. The thing is, it doesn’t matter. People are still
happy to see you. They clap and give you giant hugs. They even tell you that
you look beautiful. They compliment your dirty hair, they point out your strong
feet, they say you have nice eyebrows, they tell you they love your dress. You
also don’t have to worry about gaining weight, because everyone wants you to be
fat! They are actually disappointed if you haven’t put on a few pounds. They
say things like, “See your stomach is like your back! There are even no
intestines in there! You must eat more!” And then when you do eat some more
they say with pride, “You are really getting bulky!” And they cherish you even
more.
5. Picking your nose in public is totally acceptable. I’ll
admit, I haven’t exactly caught on to this one. It’s still a bit strange to me
to be making eye contact with someone or be in the middle of a conversation
with someone who is picking their nose. But I will say that I think the concept
is kinda cool. No shame.
6. Witchcraft.
7. I will never in my life get more marriage proposals. I won’t. It’s the sad truth. I have
already hit my peak. But the good news is that my peak is going to last for a
solid two years. I literally don’t think a week has gone by where I haven’t had
at least one proposal. The man sitting next to you on the bus, your moto
driver, some stranger walking by on the street, your friend who you’ve already
said no to fifty times, a gendarme officer, a guy who claims to be president,
the village chief, that bartender you once bought a drink from… all perfect
candidates to propose to you! Declarations of love are made in all forms, from
poems to general shouts to kissing the soles of your feet (see previous post).
You’ll receive texts like, “Good evening beautiful, since the first and last
time that I saw you I thought that you pleased me and want to see you again.
Make me a sign that you accept.” And, “Dier my name is frank, pliers I will
call u latar, I nerd to see u. I am mad becurs of u, pliers I will u good bye
kiss frank?” Who wants to miss out on gems like those?
8. Outfits here are incredible. Style takes on a whole different meaning. I believe I have alluded to
some of the androgyny that occurs with clothing here (like guys wearing shirts
with extra fabric clearly meant to be filled by breasts, or grown men in pink
sandals with sparkley flowers), but I want to reiterate it. People have some
really great outfits. When else in my life will I get to see an 18-year-old boy
wearing a shirt that says, “Do you have enough footballs for a girl like me?” Or
a tough moto driver with a pink silk jacket with the word “Pretty” in silver
rhinestones on the back? Or people wearing santa hats seriously? The answer is,
I won’t. So I’m going to enjoy it while I can. One of my favorite pastimes is simply observing what people are wearing. You might be having the worst day in your life, but then some man is
going to walk by in a denim suit with “Mishel Obama” written on the front
pocket while also sporting a zebra-striped pimp hat and wearing pink sketcher
shape-ups, and the world is good again.
9. People have a true enthusiasm for life here. Even the
smallest of things can bring massive enjoyment. For example, my carpenter
noticed a glade air freshener cone that I had originally brought from the US. He
asked if I had an extra. I didn’t, but I told him I’d have my parents
include one in the next care package. They did. I went to his house and
delivered it. You would have thought I had told him he had won the lottery. He
went batshit. I don’t think I have ever been blessed so many times at once
before.
10. I will never complain about potholes again. I have a new
appreciation for any type of pavement, no matter its condition. The roads in my
village have gotten so bad that people are using snow chains because of the
mud. Snow chains. No joke.
I am incredibly grateful for my year in the one and only C-roon. My
life will never be this exciting again.
Thursday, August 21, 2014
Stray Ends
Today, while sitting on a bus, a strand of my hair fell onto
my lap. I tried to brush it off to the side a bit, which attracted the
attention of my neighbor and her young daughter. The mother picked up my hair
and pulled it taught in front of her eyes. She and her daughter began to
inspect it. They pulled it and twisted it and examined it a few inches from
their noses. “This is yours?!” she asked me. They were absolutely fascinated.
They began talking in their local dialect with each other and took turns
holding it, passing it back and forth. Ultimately, they tied it around their umbrella
handle for safekeeping. It was still there when we got off the bus and parted
ways.
Epilepsy Expansion
This past week I went to Wum, in the North West region, for
epilepsy work. It was our first time in the town, and we weren’t sure how
things would turn out. There are currently three PCVs living in Wum who did all
of the announcements and sensitizations, but they were still a bit worried
about how many people would attend. A representative from CODEF also came to
handle the consultations and to distribute medicine. Together, we all showed up
at the hospital and met with the head doctors to introduce ourselves. The
doctors then led us to a separate building where we would be holding our event.
We walked through the doors and couldn’t believe it. There was a giant lecture
hall packed with people! We had to bring in more benches and chairs, and still
there were people who had to sit outside. It was entirely overwhelming. By the
end of it, we had met 96 new patients. We began by giving lessons on epilepsy
and talking about how to take care of someone when they have a seizure. We then
began taking statistics and surveys, and one by one the patients went in to
meet the CODEF representative for their consultation. Half way through the day
we realized we would not be able to see every patient before dark. We ended up
extending our consultations to the next day. We worked from 8:00am until after
6:00pm on the first day, and from 8:00am until 2:00pm the next day. By the
second day we had seen everyone. It was exhausting! It was incredible that so
many people were affected by epilepsy. This has been our highest turnout yet.
We have been talking to the hospital about the possibility of starting an
epilepsy clinic, and at the very least, Wum will be added to the list of places
CODEF visits each month. We were told that even more people have epilepsy in
the area and would have attended had it not been for poor roads and expensive
transport costs. We are thinking of expanding in the area and traveling to some
of the more remote villages near Wum. As always, everyone was very
appreciative. As for myself, I could not be more thankful for the team of
volunteers who helped out and made it all possible!
Thursday, August 7, 2014
Witchcraft
In Mahole, a town so small, the children had never seen a
white person before,* there are over 17 people living with epilepsy. Earlier
this month a woman gave a child some peanuts, and the child had a seizure. That
woman was immediately accused of witchcraft. She was beaten almost until death
and was charged for her crime. Her case is being dealt with by the regional
counsel. They consulted with a doctor who, through our initiatives, has worked
with CODEF. He was able to advise the counsel that witchcraft is not a
scientifically proven cause of epilepsy, and directed them to speak with CODEF
further. When I met with the village, I gave lessons about the causes of
epilepsy and how to react to a seizure. Over 20 people attended, all of them
fervently asking questions and taking notes. One man raised his hand. He was
the father of a teenage boy living with epilepsy. He stated, “We always thought
it was witchcraft. We thought he had been cursed. Now I am realizing that a
head injury can cause epilepsy. When my son was younger, he was working under a
coconut tree, and one fell on his head. He got very hurt, and shortly after
that he started falling [the term used for epileptic seizures in village].”
Witchcraft has been a very hard obstacle to overcome. It is
ingrained in the culture and is part of most people’s belief system. Their
belief in its role in epilepsy is the leading barrier to the reduction of
stigma. Peace Corps Volunteers in conjunction with CODEF have been trying to
educate communities on the proven causes of epilepsy (of which witchcraft is
not one) in order to reduce stigma and promote proper care. In fact, one of our
strongest arguments is that America does not have witchcraft (a fact
Cameroonians strictly believe), but that America still has epilepsy.
After giving one such lecture, the hosts served us a meal
and drinks. The hosts began talking about the witchcraft subject. “Africans are
always using witchcraft for evil. They spend all this time only to create bad
things, like epilepsy. But whiteman witchcraft is used for good! Look at the
whitemen, they sit around thinking about how to create good witchcraft!
Like…look at this bottle! [Holds up her soda bottle] This is whiteman
witchcraft! This is good witchcraft! The whiteman has also made airplanes…record
players…and…the telephone! Those are good witchcrafts! But here in Africa, we
only have evil witchcraft. Africans can be just as smart, it is only that they
are concerned with evil things. They need to create good witchcraft.”
* I know the children of Mahole had never seen a white
person before because after my lecture a father told his daughter, “Now, when
they ask you in school, ‘Who has ever seen a white lady before?’ You can raise
your hand and say, ‘I have seen a white lady!!’” Then he turned to me and said,
“They have never seen someone like you before!” Peace Corps: improving lives.
The Sad Reality of Epilepsy
In one remote village, an old Pa shared his experience. His
first born daughter had epilepsy. She was a mother of twin girls. One afternoon
she went to the stream behind their house to wash clothes. It was during the
dry season, so the stream was very low with only a few inches of water. She had
finished the laundry and had it folded in a basket on the rocks when she had a
seizure. She fell into the water in such a way that both her mouth and nose
were covered.
Her daughters began crying. Eventualy their cries drew a villager
to investigate, but it was too late. She had already drowned. Her two young girls
are now motherless. They are about to enter nursery school. They are shy, and
sat on a bench quietly playing with each other during my meeting with the Pa.
Their mother was my age. If she were alive today, she would be 23 years old.
Later that same year, the Pa’s second daughter had an
epileptic seizure while cooking. In Cameroon, woman cook in outdoor kitchens
over open fires. She was alone. She fell into the fire and suffered terrible
burns. The Pa showed us the tattered rags that were left of the dress his daughter had been wearing that day. She was transported to the hospital, but died
the next morning. She also left behind a young child.
The Pa additionally has one son living with epilepsy. He
prays every day that his son will not be taken from him the way his daughters
were.
The hardest part about confronting these deaths is that they
are so unnecessary and senseless. If these women had had access to medicine, it
is likely they would not have had seizures those days. If there had been basic
education, if the women knew the safety precautions they could have taken, if
the community knew how to react to a seizure, if villagers had accompanied
them—countless ifs—those children would likely still have mothers today.
Epilepsy is having dramatic consequences in Cameroon which can be prevented.
CODEF and Peace Corps Volunteers are working hard to create awareness,
distribute medication, and bring basic education to rural communities to fight
against results like these.
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